Camino Frances - de route

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Day 1 St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles 24km, 7 to 8 hours.

St Jean Pied de Port it is a beautiful bustling French market town in the foothills of the Pyrenees which borders France and Spain. In St Jean you can buy most last minute items, like a hat or suncream.

St Jean Pied de Port is the traditional starting point for the Camino Frances, the most popular Camino route which also has the best infrastructure.  This however makes the route very busy during the peak summer months of July and August.

Before setting out check the weather forecast in the pilgrim’s office at the top of the main street, 39 Rue de la Citadelle. They will also supply you with your pilgrim’s passport and information on the route ahead with an updated lists of hostels.  It is advisable to check here for any last minute information.

The first day on the Camino Frances is the hardest of the whole route.  It is the first day, and your body is probably not used to walking all day carrying a rucksack, if you have packed more than 10% of your body weight you will know about it quickly.  However you will know after a while anyway as your body objects to this extra burden and begins to adapt.  The route from St Jean is steep and climbs from 200 metres above sea level to just above 1,400 meters then descends steeply back down again into Roncesvalles at 900 metres, which can be hard going on your knees and shins.

It is advisable to only start this day if you have a full day ahead and leave early.  You could start half way through the day if you have booked yourself into Orrison, which is about 8km out of St Jean. There are two routes from St Jean to Roncesvalles, the Napoleon Route if you are walking and the Valcarlos route, (road route), if you are cycling – though many cyclists use mountain bikes and travel along the same paths as the walkers.

St Jean Pied du Port All services, inc. bar, cafe, restaurant, bank, ATM, medical, pharmacy, shops, post office, pilgrims office - http://www.aucoeurduchemin.org/spip/

Municipal Hostel, 55 Rue de la Citadelle, €8, 32 beds, W, D, K, B, Tel: 559370509, Web: http://www.aucoeurduchemin.org/spip/ Open all year.

Beilari, private, 40 Rue de la Citadelle, €26, 18 beds, Half Board – Diner, Bed & Breaskfast, Bike, Tel: +33 (0) 55 93 72 468 , Web: http://www.beilari.info/en Formally L’Espirit du Chemin.  They will also provide a snack lunch for the next day for €4.  Open April 1st to November 1st

Auberge du Pelerin, 25 Rue de la Citadelle, private, €16, 48 beds, W, D, B€5, M€12, @, Bike, Tel: +33 (0) 55 94 91 086 , Web: http://www.aubergedupelerin.com/ Open mid March to 30 th October

Gite Ultreia, private, 8 Rue de la Citadelle, €16, 15 beds, W, D, B€4, @, Bike, Tel: +33 (0) 680884622 , Web: http://www.ultreia64.fr/en/ Open April to Mid October.

Maison Kaserna, private, 43 Rue d’Espagne, €15, 12 beds, W, D, M€11, Tel: +33 (0) 559376517

Le Chemin Vers L’Etoile, private, 21 Rue d’Espagne, €17, 18 beds, B&B, W, D, K, Bike, Tel: +33 (0) 559372071 , Web: http://www.pelerinage-saint-jacques-compostelle.com/en/gite Open all year, but reservations required Nov to March

Refuge Esponda, private, 9,Rue du Trinquet, €14, 14 beds, K, W, Tel: +33 (0) 679075252

Auberge Compostella, private, 6 Route D’Arneguy, K, Tel: +33 (0) 559370236

Auberge Azkorria, private, 50 Rue de la Citadelle, €18, 8 beds, W, D, M, @, Tel: +33 (0) 559370053 , Open all year.

Leaving St Jean walk down the beautiful main street and start walking uphill through the old town gate.  The Camino signs are impossible to miss and unless you are walking mid winter there will also be a steady stream of pilgrims in front of and behind you. Have some food and your water bottle full.

Take it easy.  The Camino is not a sprint, it is a marathon; one that can be enjoyed and savoured.  Although the walk up the Pyrenees is difficult it is immensely rewarding.  The peace and silence is a precursor of the times ahead on the Meseta. The views are stunning and if you do stay in the Orrison overnight it is worth getting up early as the views in the morning sun are stunning.

Orisson, bar/ cafe, water

Refuge Orisson, private, Orisson, €33, 18 beds, D, M, B, Bike, Tel: +33 (0) 559 491 303 Web: http://www.refuge-orisson.com/ Open March to Oct recommend booking in advance as gets very busy.

Approaching Roncesvalles there is a choice of two paths.  At this point you will see the monastery below nestled in the valley surrounded by trees.  One path goes straight down the hill side and is steep and can be dangerous, (an old Roman Road) – the other to the right is much easier and better underfoot, but slightly longer.  Both routes bring you out at the rear of the Collegiate Church in Roncesvalles.

Roncesvalles,

Refugede Peregrinos, Parochial, €10, 180 beds + overflow tents, W, D, K, @, V, Cred, Bike, Tel: 948 760 000 Web: http://www.alberguederoncesvalles.com/